In July 2016, 21 members of the Beijing University Climbing Team arrived in Tibet. This is the first time since the climb of Caruschon in 2010 and it has once again entered the snow-capped mountains.
Step by step through the mountains and rivers
Zhuo Mura Ri Kang Snow Mountain is located in the northern foothills of the middle Himalayas, at an altitude of 7034m. Only in 2013 has a small team climbed this mountain. Sacred Mountain Company organized a mountain-climbing skiing conference in 2015. This is the only large-scale climbing event held in this mountain.
There are very few peaks available for this mountain peak. The Beijing University team climbed the exploratory climb. In addition, the students climbed in July and August in the summer vacation. As the rainy season in Tibet, continuous snowfall usually occurs and the weather is poor, which increases the number of climbs. Big risks and uncertainties. The mountaineering team established the Base Camp (BC) on July 16th, and the mountaineering team organized several explorations of the path within 12 days afterwards. It finally determined the eastern ridge route as the climbing route of the Jomtura-Nikon Peak.
On July 29th, 12 Group A members of the Beijing University Mountaineering Team set out from ABC at an altitude of 5850m to campsite C1 at an altitude of 6,600m. On the morning of the same day, the three components of Group A were respectively responsible for road construction, transportation of road building materials, and transportation of camp supplies. The road construction team first reached the blade ridge at an elevation of 6550 m and began to build roads. After repairing the 250m road line, the road construction team suddenly felt that the snow layer of the entire ridge part had collapsed downwards and caused a huge vibration. This was the entire team. Never encountered. It is precisely because of continuous snowstorms in previous days that the condition of the snow layer is not stable. The road construction team judges that the protection point of the road is facing the risk of failure. Continuing this ridge activity or destroying the entire snow layer may cause snow. A large area fell off and decided to abandon the road. Simultaneously, all members of the Group A withdrew to an altitude of 6450m to establish a C1 camp. The coaching staff discussed that night that the students' mountaineering experience was based on snow-capped mountains experiences and snow-capped mountains training instead of blindly targeting the summit. Through the edge of the ridge, they decided to abandon the eastern ridge route. On July 30th, all the members of Group A withdrew from C1 to BC and gave up their peaks.
Group A photo in C1 (Figure / Shen Wensheng)
Beyond the heart of Qianshan
The goal of the Beijing Team B team is snow mountain training. On July 27th, four old players led three new players to form group B (the previous two players dropped early due to personal reasons). The main task was to go to C1 (elevation 6600m) on the east ridge route ABC (elevation 5850m). During the course of repairing a steep slope, the old team led the three new players to repair the 450m road rope, and then the knot group rose to an altitude of 6250m. On the 29th, Group B conducted martial arts training in the crack area on the glacier and learned to safely and efficiently pass through the crack area. Group B formed two rope teams to cross the snow slope and the rolling stone area to the crack area of ​​the Dagukou, observing and detecting the dark cracks and crossing the cracks. On the 30th, the B group protected the practice slippery brakes on the ice slope on the road and then withdrew to the BC in the afternoon with the A group. Although Group B did not attempt to climb, the three-day snowline experience was sufficiently rich for the new team members and successfully completed the original snow mountain training mission.
New team member B ice road repair (Figure / Zhang Mo)
Group B group rose to 6250m (Figure / Zhang Mo)
Group B training across the cracks (Figure/Soranzassie)
Eagle flying in Himalayan
In particular, student mountaineering needs to control risks. Since 2003, the mountaineering activities of the Peking University mountaineering team have begun to target snow-capped mountains. In 14 years, Shan Yingshe once again selected a 7000-meter mountain peak in the Himalayas as a target mountain. Although due to the local climate, the summit was eventually abandoned. However, the mountaineering team completed the established snow mountain training program during the mountaineering process, which deepened the understanding of the Himalayan glaciers and eventually returned to Lhasa safely and smoothly. The mountain is always there. The mountain eagle has a dream of snow-capped mountains and never stops flying.
This article is from Mountain Eagle, edited by Shan Shi
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